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W. Tripp

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About W. Tripp

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    http://www.rpmpowerboats.com
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  1. 2004 Kevlar Triad River Rocket "Special" - One of the very few Kevlar hulls, and this one was built specificaly for the owner. Only Rocket built with K1205 Kevlar instead of K900 - very strong and rigid. Hull weight - 581 Rigged weight - 1192 pounds - 1152 pounds with race fairing. Blueprinted pad Color - Boyds Hot Rod Yellow with black windscreen. Interior - White seats with yellow inserts and black piping. Carbon fiber driver's seat. Carbon fiber dash overlay Layout - 3 seat with center steering (cable). Rigging: Cable steering Full compliment of gauges - white face with yellow bezel rings Digatron DT-53 with logging. Trim Indicator - Stainless Marine In-Control foot throttle and shifter. Fuel system - Weldon with billet fuel filter. Trim - Mercruiser pump Rapid Jack jackplate Engine: 280 with Drag electronics (low hours) Custom mapped A6 ECU Brucato SVS Rubber-coated reed cages Diamond lightened flywheel with rare earth magnets Magnacor plug wires Custom modified tuner and adapter plate 15 inch midsection Drag engine cowl TorqueMaster lower unit with JC's nosecone; 1.87:1 gears Race cowl Custom fitted Sunbrella cover - yellow Trailer - Customline single axle liquid hubs torsion axels black with yellow pinstripes This is a very low hour boat that was custom built for the owner. It is in excellent condition - only used 2-3days each year. Price - USD $40,000 with choice of 2 props from large selection. For more details - e-mail Wayne Tripp at h2o_drag at yahoo.com (replace 'at' with @) more photos available.
  2. Yep, I ran into it. I tried replacing the stator, trigger, swapped coils, looked for water leaks, etc. Never did figure it out. However, I later had the injectors tested from that motor and 4 of the 6 didn't pass. Maybe something to look into. Have you removed the head(s) and looked for signs of detonation? Start by looking at the metal portion of the head gasket for dents or dings. Light detonation Also look at the pistons and heads for small pock marks. Heavy detonation The left bank (especially on the center and lowest bores) tends to ping first. If the pinging continues, detonation will set in. Detonation wis erratic combustion that causes small explosions instead of a complete burn in the combustion chamber. As a result, gas temps drop. I hope this helps.
  3. http://www.atomracing.se/index.html W-9 technical data 9 cylinder four-stroke engine in W formation with 3 cylinder rows. Cylinder volume: 2977 cm³ ( 182 in³) Bore: 90 mm Stroke: 52 mm Max rpm: 12500 Compression: 12,7:1 W-angle: 60°-0°-60° Fuel: Ethanol, E85 Head layout: 4-valve, 20° included valve angle Dimensions: LxWxH, 434x623x448mm (17,1x24,5x17,6 ") Weight: 118 kg ( 262 lbs) complete with exhaust system Max torque (est.): 380 Nm ( 280 lbs-ft)@ 7200 rpm (bmep: 15,7 bar ; 228 psi) Max power (est.): 526 hp@ 10700 rpm (bmep: 14,6 bar ; 211 psi), dimensioned for Tri-Turbo 1005 hp ENJOY! -Wayne
  4. Project 280+P (Part II)

    ttt Part III will be up soon!
  5. Is my Rocket heavy?

    Your boat looks to be heavy, but not a lot. Gas and oil weigh 6.25 pounds per gallon. Wet carpeting can weigh up to 20 additional pounds. A standard lay-up River Rocket has a hull weight of approx. 750 pounds and weighs 1325-1350 pounds fully rigged. My fully rigged Kevlar Euro weighed 1402 pounds with hydraulic steering - about 50-70 pounds less than most. Hull weight was right at 800 lbs. My Kevlar River Rocket weighs 1187 pounds fully rigged (about 40 pounds less with the race fairing installed) and had a hull weight of 576 lbs. I hope this helps.
  6. Missing Member

    Gearcase, I like the lines of the boat as well - but I am biased. The compressor is modular in design and has been developed in several sizes for engines from .5L to 9L (30-550ci). Applications are endless - cycles, outboards, automotive, aero, etc. Very light and very efficient with low drive losses (much lower than other designs). Drive systems explored so far range from belt/crankshaft, hydraulic/power steering, and exhaust/turbo.
  7. Celebrating a B-Day

    Randy, I hope you had a great one! -Wayne
  8. Missing Member

    I appologize for the absence and the delay on the 280 project...I will have MUCH more next week. It is true, I have gotten out of boat racing for the time being - too little time, and other projects have priority right now. My business is keeping me covered up, I am bringing a new supercharger to market that is right now in the late design and testing stage and moving into production. And my brother has a new boat company that I have been helping - http://www.rpmpowerboats.com/pages/1/index.htm (website soon to be completely revamped!) The 26 Redline by Revolution Performance Marine is VERY efficient, and with a single Mercury Racing 525 sterndrive package has proven to produce speeds significantly higher than any other boat design has been able to reach. This boat is the closest to an STV of any sterndrive boat that I have ever driven. The initial testing results of speeds of 100 mph developed into in us being invited to Mercury's X-Site for further testing and development that went VERY WELL. I still love my River Rocket though! And Rob, NO it is NOT for sale! I sold the DR-20 and the DRX only to get more room in the shop for other toys.
  9. Prop Science- Diameter effect?

    Diameter has a large affect on useable blade area. Reduced diameter changes the lever arm length for each blade. A 14.5 inch diameter has a blade with slightly more leverage than one with a 14 inch diameter. This gives a lower amount of slip for the slightly longer blades. Also, since a surfacing prop is only partly exposed to water at speed, and since the inner-most part of the blades are shrouded by the gearcase, the slight change in length is actually larger than it would appear. let's say you have a 14.5 inch diameter prop that you like, but cannot pull well to a given rpm. By trimming the tips of the blades a very small amount and reworking the blade tip shape, you can reduce the torque required to turn the prop at the expense of a slight increase in slip. This can get this prop an increase in acceleration by allowing the engine to get into a better area of its power band than was available before. Then by adjusting the propshaft height and/or the prop's setback on the propshaft, you can tailor the prop's bite for your usage. Example: I have a very good Yamaha 24p prop that has been trimmed very slightly. On a boat with near stock power, this prop accelerates better than it did with its full diameter. But once it gets to a given speed it hits a wall and will not go any faster. On the same boat with more power, it slips too much and still has the same top speed. I hope this helps.
  10. Fuel system

    Jeff, Since you are not using a pump to feed the vapor tank, I assume that the entire vapor tank is below the bottom of the fuel tank - otherwise, it will not fill completely using gravity. If it is not completely below the fuel tank, a check valve will allow the return from the fuel rail to fill the vapor tank if the fuel pump has enough flow. Make sure the flow of the check valve is NOT a restriction to the fuel pump. If the vapor tank is mounted level with the bottom of the fuel tank, you are not accomplishing much with the vapor tank that couldn't be done with a baffled sump in the fuel tank.
  11. Just said "I'll take it". (oop's!)

    NICE looking boat! What year is the engine? It looks like one of the 235/250 Second Effort engines.
  12. Fuel system

    Jeff, First off, Happy Easter! This has been covered here and on S&F several times in the past, but I will repeat it again since many don't understand how the fuel system works. If you are not racing, you should not be running the tank empty. You don't do it in a car, and you sure don't do it in a diesel truck or car - and neither of these sees the fuel slosh as much as a boat does. If you are RACING, then use a fuel cell with a sump. If you don't filter your fuel BEFORE it goes into the tank, any debris will get sucked into the fuel system when you run it dry. If your fuel pump is at or below the fuel level in the tank, your fuel pump is hardly working at all - think about the siphoning action. The only times it has to pull fuel is when the pick up is not submerged. A "duckfoot" or bell mouth can be added to the end of the pick up but should not be closer to the bottom of the tank than the diameter of the "duckfoot/bellmouth". Another old trick is to add a short length of flexible fuel line to the fuel pick up and to add a weight to the end of the fuel line. The FLEXIBLE fuel line will move around with the sloshing fuel in the bottom of the tank and help reduce sucking up air. If you are going to race or want to run a race fuel system like you mentioned - so you can run the fuel tank lower, DO NOT put a restriction like a check ball in front of the fuel pump! A vapor tank is really called a vapor elimination tank or surge tank. If you do suck air into the fuel system with a vapor tank, no harm is done. It simply gets returned to the fuel tank. If you are using a vapor tank, its PRIMARY mission is as a surge tank - to absorb the times when the fuel pick up is not submerged when the boat is under hard acceleration (fore/back, side-to-side), and when the fuel demand is high. The feeder pump should fill the vapor tank, this is its ONLY job. If you match the size of the vapor tank to your needs, the feeder pump does not need to flow quite as much fuel as the primary pump. The bottom of the surge tank feeds the primary fuel pump, that pressurizes the fuel, sends it to a good filter which feeds the engine. The primary pump must be matched to the fuel demands of your engine. If the pump is rated for 450 hp for a four-stroke engine, you need a LOT more capacity for a 300 hp two-stroke engine - nearly double the four-stroke flow rating - especially for a high RPM engine. The return line from the fuel rail should empty into the top of the surge tank. A low pressure check ball (like the 3 psi ones from Kinsler and others) should be mounted on top of the surge tank and used to route fuel back to the top of the tank near the pick up. This will keep the surge tank pressurized at low pressure (so the feeder pump is hardly working) and allows any air (vapor) pulled into the system to return back to the top of the fuel tank. If you do not use a check ball between the vapor tank and the fuel tank, the feeder pump needs to flow as much fuel as the primary pump. If not, the vapor tank can run dry under large fuel demands. A low pressure check ball is much cheaper than a bigger fuel pump in many cases. [Realize that fuel has weight. When you accelerate, the fuel surges toward the rear of the boat. In a car the fuel tank is generally mounted in the rear of a car and the engine is in the front. In this case the fuel pump has to overcome the added weight of the fuel under acceleration. - Just someting to think about.] Also, MAKE SURE your fuel tank has a vent big enough to allow as much air to enter the tank as the amount of fuel being pulled out of it. You would be amazed at the number of guys who don't do this and then have fuel system issues....and blame the fuel pump. A simple length of fuel line mounted to the top of the tank with 1 or 2 coils will flow well and not allow fuel to splash out since the coils act like a trap. This type of fuel system design is used in many types of racing and allows the tank to be run completely dry before the fuel system sends any air to the engine, since the vapor/surge tank and fuel lines are still full when the tank runs dry. I hope this helps.
  13. Project 280+P (Part I)

    Rob, Between business, the SC project, helping get my brother's first boat ready for the magazines, and Honey-do's, my boats are WAY down on the priority list. I have also been porting heads and throttle bodies and building a custom header for my bike (welding merge collectors and exhaust splitters - lots of fun...NOT), now that I have the ability to tune the Keihin ECU for fuel and timing. The "280+P" engine is almost finished - it is back from replating (a bit of clean up porting on the port entries is left to do), and then I need to assemble it....when I get some time. I will shoot the remaining photos, and add the next part ASAP. INCLUDING the port map of the finished engine IN DEGREES - for Galen. I normally don't give that out for outboard engines because I get stupid looks when I talk about port timing in degrees for outboard engines. ALL other two-stoke engine builders use timing in degrees (and area in square mm)....for some reason many outboard engine builders seem mystified by a timing wheel.
  14. Project 280+P (Part I)

    The rest of the photos and MORE will be up very soon. I am covered up at the moment. -Wayne
  15. octane booster

    www.bndautomotive.com is the distributor.
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