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DRIVING TIPS

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Dear STV Enthusiast,

Are you just starting to look for an STV or ready to hit the water with your new STV?  Here are some interesting things to review about your new STV before you hit the water and while you are on the water. Let us know your experiences too!

http://www.stvowners.com/drive_tip.htm

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Guest SD MIKEY

OK I read this before I bought my boat and just read it again, very helpfull.  2 things I didn't see was after a fast run very slowly let off the gas pedal.  When I let off kinda of fast it seems to turn by its self.  The other thing was, I was doing like 85-90mph and came up on some wakes from another boat.  I was woundering what you guys recommend in this situtation?  I think I backed off and the boat started to get what I call head shake(motorcycle term) seemed to start to get loose like it was swaping back and forth.  I gave it a little gas and it seemed to go away.  Why did it do this?  Because I backed out?  Where I go there are 3 STV's and a lot of other rigs.  The river is not to wide and you always pass people going the other way.  I would like to know what you guys do when you pass a boat going the other way?    The tips section is very good, just trying to completely understand what my boat will do in most situtations and what the best way to drive it is.

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Don't leave off if you see them wakes! :0  What I do, and it took a few years to get brave enough is add more throttle. What is does is pull(lift) the hull higher to get over the wakes easier. I suggest you start by working with smaller wakes and work up from there as you feel more comfortable... the STV runs over wakes better above 60 than going slower! I have hit wakes in the 80+ that I thought I should PRAY but when you hit them it's kinda just goes bump, bump, bump and you're over them! Now try that slower nad you might just get WET!  :D

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GREAT COMMENTS LARRY,

Larry is dead on with his responce. Often it is best to "Stay-in-It" when approaching wakes. However you have to be good at reading waves cause the wave at 300 yds may have looked like only 2 footers...but once your on it...its a 4 foot roller :0

Anyway...I still suggest you back your speed down to the 60-80 range and work your confidence up from there with approching  waves. Like Larry said, speed below 60 makes the boat "too wet" and will pitch the boat off the wave instead of "fly/skim" over the tops.

ALSO...RULE #1...One of the early rules I learned form some who taught me was NEVER do a sudden torque realease on the Pedal. Our Big Bore Motors don't take to that very well...casue the sudden realease of torque on the prop makes the boat want to hook. Try that in V bottom and you'll more then likely find yourself facing the opposite direction in a hurry.

SD.... THANKS for  bringing that point up and YES I SHOULD have had that in my article. I will revise it and get Larry to update a newer version soon.

I APPRECIATE your feedback!!

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Guest SD MIKEY

I have been gone for a while but didnt forget.  Thanks for the help!  Just a few other questions since you guys are putting in your 2 cents.  Does it matter if you hit the wakes at a angle or straight on?  The reason I posted this I was doing the speeds you're talking about(60-80) and came up on some wakes and the boat seemed to get loose.  When it getts loose do you hold the gas steady or give it a little more gas?  Just trying to be a better boater.

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I prefer to cross at a reduced angle at higher speeds..as we are usually on the river this isn't always the case..as for getting loose I drive through this (add throttle)..sort of like a car in a curve..let off and it can get loose..give it some gas and it grabs..I can say this..I haven't had to cross any rollers at 80 yet..we can see other boats coming and usually slow down a bit

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It's been awhile since my last visit. Can someone reset the link to this article, or post it? I recall reading this years ago when I first bought my LTV. It helped immensely, especially for a newb experiencing severe chine walk for the first time. Took me some time to figure out that "lifting" and "trimming" were keys to stability.

Thanks.

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