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96EuroSTV

Gearcase swap question...

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I've got a 96' Roark Built Euro with a 93 2.5 carb, and last fall the driveshaft snapped just above the water pump (as I hear they commonly do). The gearcase is a CLE w/ Bob's nosecone, allison skeg, and blowout ring. I have a 20" Sportmaster available to me, but I know that will require a different mid section, and shifter shaft. Anything else?

So here's my question: My boat was factory drilled for the 2.5 and it's a standard 25". Will I have to get a jack plate to go with the shorter shaft? Steering cables will be the problem right? Do most of you guys run jack plates or setbacks anyway? Is there much gain in handling from the shorter mid and the setback?

Any advantage to running the sporty over the modded CLE? I know the sportmaster shafts are supposed to be bigger, and maybe one piece design too right?

Any input would be appreciated...

Thanks,

Mike

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I've got a 96' Roark Built Euro with a 93 2.5 carb, and last fall the driveshaft snapped just above the water pump (as I hear they commonly do). The gearcase is a CLE w/ Bob's nosecone, allison skeg, and blowout ring. I have a 20" Sportmaster available to me, but I know that will require a different mid section, and shifter shaft. Anything else?

So here's my question: My boat was factory drilled for the 2.5 and it's a standard 25". Will I have to get a jack plate to go with the shorter shaft? Steering cables will be the problem right? Do most of you guys run jack plates or setbacks anyway? Is there much gain in handling from the shorter mid and the setback?

Any advantage to running the sporty over the modded CLE? I know the sportmaster shafts are supposed to be bigger, and maybe one piece design too right?

Any input would be appreciated...

Thanks,

Mike

Mike,

first thing is make sure you have a 25" versus a 20". IMHO, the 25" is way too long and a jackplate probably will not help you. I run a 20" mid and have it up a bit on my jackplate. Some here run 15" mids, and that requires some modifications. You will not need any adjustments to run the 20", but most folks here run 4-6" of setback, and the jack plate is helpful to get the boat dialed in with the lower unit in relation to the pad.

Best advice I got on this board with the setup is to look down the pad from the front of the boat to the lower unit. You should just be able to see the holes in the front of the cone. That is a good starting point to get it dialed in from there.

As far as a CLE vs a sporty, there are many more qualified people on this board than me, but here is my $.02. There are 2 different basic cle's. The older ones are 2 hole, and the later models are 4 hole. These were early consumer racing lower units and preceded the sportmaster. The sport master is thicker in the skeg, has a larger diameter, and is stronger. The 2 hole is supposedly faster than the 4 which is supposedly faster than the sportmaster. I found my old 2 hole to be 2-3 mph faster than my sporty, but my tests were far from scientific. I went to the sporty after I cracked my CLE skeg, and have had no issues in 1 1/2 years with the sporty. All 3 have hardened internals over the regular lower units.

Hope this helps as a starting point and hopefully more folks will chime in. There are also a lot of threads here in the archives about setting these up, setback...etc. While waiting, you might try perusing them.

good luck,

fish

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Thanks for the reply fish! I think my gearcase IS a 20" now. I put the broken drive shaft into the water pump housing, and measured from the top of the water pump housing (where the drive shaft exits the housing) to the bottom of the splines and it's 20". I was not sure how to measure the length, but this kinda makes sense! Am I measuring this correctly? Anybody?

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the sport master might just bolt up. you need to find what it was on last. i have a SM on a 2.5 200xs and it should fit a normal 2.5. the later mopdel SM also have fat shatf for the props and that maybe also be a problem.

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Thanks for the reply fish! I think my gearcase IS a 20" now. I put the broken drive shaft into the water pump housing, and measured from the top of the water pump housing (where the drive shaft exits the housing) to the bottom of the splines and it's 20". I was not sure how to measure the length, but this kinda makes sense! Am I measuring this correctly? Anybody?

All 2.5 20" Sporty's and CLE's and regular 2.4/2.5 cases are interchangable. Bolt it on and go.

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