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I'll just stick with my dual opposed cable steering for that kind of money.

that's it, no one wants to spend 2000 on safety, but dont mind spending 5000 to go faster, i dont understand the logic?

Brad, i only talked to him a few times, he lives out near larry (euroski). i also heard herb's euro is going north.

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Just got off the phone with the guys from IMCO. Nice guys. I priced out the complete system turn key w/out fluid and it was $3,014 plus tax and shipping. WOW! I'd wouldn't be telling the truth if I said I didn't experience some sticker shock. In addition to that he wasn't sure if the helm would fit. He told me that the helm is rather large and some of the smaller boats have issues with them fitting. I'm going to price out some of the other choices. I could stomach spending close to 2k. But over 3K is a bit much, for me anyway.

One things for sure. It must be quite an awsome set up for that kind of money. He did tell me that the price included all the fittings including the through transom fitting and all four hoses. Sounds nice. But, $$$$$$$

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FYI I talked with Latham and they offer two systems for the outboards. One is self contained and the other is full power. Self contained unit it $3,600 ish w/out all hardware, lines or wheel. The full power unit is $5,800 ish the same way. So, you can bet you'll spend another $ 500.00 or more on hardware, lines and a wheel. The cost of that set up makes the IMCO sound cheap. Oh, and they told me that they shoot for having four turns lock to lock. But, it can vary depending on a few different factors. IMCO told me that there system is 2.5 turns lock to lock. So, based on a few phone calls it sound like the IMCO is more bang for the buck. IMCO also told me that there mounting system adds so much strength to the assembly that it takes all kinds of stress of the motor mounts. I would like to see what a set up looks like on an STV. I'm sure it looks nice. Anyway, thought someone would want to know.

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sea star 2.4 helm 400

lines from the local hyd shop 125

imco system/pin/ram/plate 1300

thats 1825 plus shipping and a few quarts of fluid.

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I'll just stick with my dual opposed cable steering for that kind of money.

which is the weakest system of all!

Care to elaborate?

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Care to elaborate?

you are trusting your life to a 5/16" bolt attatched to a tiller arm.

there have been many know failures, some causing death.

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I'll just stick with my dual opposed cable steering for that kind of money.

that's it, no one wants to spend 2000 on safety, but dont mind spending 5000 to go faster, i dont understand the logic?

So where is the safety issue with the dual opposed steering that is addressed by hydraulic? I don't want to spend another $2k on a $12k boat. I have driven this thing through water that most of you guys wouldn't consider for years with no issues in that department. Tell me where I'm going wrong so I can evaluate it.

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Care to elaborate?

you are trusting your life to a 5/16" bolt attatched to a tiller arm.

there have been many know failures, some causing death.

So you mean the bolts that hold the stainless plate to the tiller arm, than then connect to the two steering rods? My plate is bolted into (tiller arm is threaded) and then backed up with fiberlock jam nuts on BOTH of the 5/16" bolts there.

Are we expecting these bolts to fail, as in break, or is it more likely that they have come out over time - on the ones that have let go? Those bolts, as well as all the steering bolts, motor mount bolts and jack plate bolts get checked before every outing in my case.

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i have run the other systems without any problems. i just decided im not chancing it. i would hate for my wife to have

to tell my kids someday that i was hurt/killed because i kept using a product that i knew had a tendency to break. this

thing of going over 100mph is dangerous as it is.

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No doubt the result would be catastrophic...what I'm getting at is WHY did it fail? Because the bolt(s) broke (how many did he have, 1 or 2), or did the bolt come out over time from vibration?

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i think they shear, rt or someone with more experience will have to elaborate more on this. i imagine its from the torque of the engine

putting stress on the bolt over a period of time.

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I have had one of the bolts that hold the steering arms from the cable end to the plate come out. That day I went home on one steering arm at a slow pace. Ever since, I check all of those things before every outing.

steering.jpg

Again, I don't think that system is any more failure prone than any other, as long as you are on top of the maintenance. Now, if you don't want the feedback and feel of what's going on (and you don't like the steering torque) then hydraulic is the way to go. Personally, I like to feel what's going on and I'm not so weak that I can't hold the wheel straight. :D

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i think they shear, rt or someone with more experience will have to elaborate more on this. i imagine its from the torque of the engine

putting stress on the bolt over a period of time.

I'd like to hear what happens. If that's the case, then it's easy to go to a grade 8 ultra coated bolt/nut combo and simply replace every year as standard practice. Again maintenance is key. I always wondered why I spend 2 hrs of maintenance for every 1 hr in the water. ;)

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So by safer you mean you don't want to have to check it as often?

I just don't see how the hydraulic is more "safe". Assuming you check those bolts and replace yearly, I doubt there will be a failure. I would like to know how long it had been since the bolts had been replaced and checked in Kurt's ride. Not blaming anyone for anything, but again want to KNOW if it's part failure or lack of preventative maintenance.

How can you quantify being "safer"?

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Keith any set up that does not get any maintenance can result in failure.

If you go and look at one of the side ram hyd set ups you would have to agree that they are more heavy duty then the single front bolt. THe side ram and all the bolts that hold everything together are huge.

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STV keith, i think your system is safe. i have never heard of anyone crashing due to that syst. maybe it has happen but it would be rare enough that in 15 yrs boating i never heard of it.

with that syst. there is never less than 2 bolts and no smaller that 5/16" with atleast a 3/8 backing them up. anyway, i have seen many of them give away on one side only(happen to me as i strolled under a bridge) and another to a friend of mine, both were on allison's.

as matt said as long as its maintained i think the syst. is pretty safe.

seastar on the other hand is bad in my opinion, it just scare's the crap out of me.

this is a very good thread, there is no telling how many lives it could save as we educate each other and discuss failures ;)

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Keith,

What's the advantage to having the duel apposed over duel on the same side? Is one any safer that the other? It seems to me that if one of the bolts broke on either set up the end result would be the same. You would be using the one cable with the good bolt to push and pull instead of one cable to push and one to pull, right?

This is a good thread. I've been thinking of doing the hydraulic thing. But, if the two cable thing is considered safe I may stick with it. It wasn't until this season I have been running over 110 and I have been concerned about the steering safety. My first run in my boat this season after breaking the fresh motor in resulted in a scary ride when my mid section broke at 100 with three people in the boat. Thankfully nobody was hurt or thrown from the boat. It did do a hard right and come to an instant stop. It did spook me to say the least. One things for sure, I would not want that happening at speeds in excess of 110. As you all know, there is a HUGE difference between 100 and 110 plus.

Looking forward to hearing some more on the safety of the duel cable steering both standard and apposed. Myself, like Keith have no problem man handling the wheel. My motivation in doing the hydraulic steering is safety, not ease of turning. But, the ease of turning is a purk that I will glady welcome.

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Apposed cables can use 2 bolts on the tiller. Some one must have a pic of that?

Now what about cable steering? Isn't this safe?

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Apposed cables can use 2 bolts on the tiller. Some one must have a pic of that?

Now what about cable steering? Isn't this safe?

See the pic I posted. Each cable has it's own arm that connects to the tiller. Each arm has it's own bolt. Perhaps in the same side setup that RC51 has, that may or may not be the case.

RC51, as you mentioned, I have had one of those bolts come out. I was running in Mojave about 2 years ago, playing with Mark in his 30 Spectre. We were over 100mph going down the lake. As I slowed down, I blipped the throttle a few times and immediately felt more slop in the steering than normal. Pulled in to a beach and found one bolt missing and the arm dangling.

Drove home at a very reserved pace. Replaced both bolts with new and now check before every outing that the jam nuts are still there and tight. Personally, I have no worries about my system at 100+ mph. I had considered going hydraulic, but I actually decided I liked the feedback on the wheel, so I knew what was going on back there.

I agree that a wing plate mounted, side ram hydraulic is likely stronger, using bigger hardware, but is probably overkill...not that that's bad.

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