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STV_Keith

Pro Comp Transom Problems

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I've got to have some time away from this project boat of mine.  Every weekend it's a new crack or a motor that just won't go.  I'm kinda disappointed with it.  97mph is not enough for me.

So, I'm taking some time off until after Memorial Day.  Once that goes by, I'll have some time to start stripping it down.  I'll shoot pics when I get there.

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BRAD...

The Washer plates that I fab are 2" wide x 1/2" thk and there was no way I could have mounted them on the upper holes on our STV.

Looks like your plate is quite a bit thinner (1/8"?) and that would help

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UPDATES:  The boat is completely stripped now.  I'll try to get pics next week.  I'm taking it to a local place for an estimate next week as well.  Custom Industrial Fiberglass...supposed to do VERY nice work.  The cracks will ALL be fixed and layed up heavier, all the gel will be color sanded, I'm changing out the cleats for pop-ups, adding that GPS speedo, Incontrol foot throttle and dead pedals, etc.

For the transom, I have decided to build a 4" tall, full transom width 1/2" thick aluminum plate for the top and bottom bolts.  Each plate will be welded to a 3/8" thick aluminum plate that will extend forward down the knees and be thru-bolted to a 3/8" backing plate.  Once the knee bolts are in place, I should be able to pull the transom forward and get it all tightened up before the glass work starts.

The motor mount bolts are drilled incorrectly, based on Roark's 2-1/4" from the top spec for the top bolt holes.  Mine are centered at 1-3/4", so this is why I don't have room for a backing plate currently.  Given that the holes on the merc brackets are 3/4" apart, I think I'm gonna drill the top ones at 3" from the top to move everything down and get into some good meat of the transom, and have plenty of room for the backing plates.  I'll have the old holes fiberglassed up while the boat is being fixed.

For those that don't know, I've got a 2.5/260 coming as well, that Jay Smith is gonna work on (rod slots, exhaust chest, lighten/balance pistons-rods-wrist pins, intake ports and mill front half) as well as it will be dry-stacked.  Marles is going to top-pin the pistons.  THAT should make it go!

'Bout time!  :D

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Here are pics of all the damage on the boat for those that might be interested.  The initial "from the hip" quote to fix EVERYTHING was "a couple grand".  We'll see what the written quote covers and what it costs in the next day or so.  I told the guy to quote everything we have to do while the boat is de-rigged and/or flippable.  Everything else can wait (for $$$;).

Pics

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I had to repair the bottom of my rig a few months ago..couple of grand worth of work..while I was at it I had a foot rest glassed in for the passenger as well as myself...also a baffel glassed in on the passenger side sponson so as to keep stuff from sliding way up front when decelerating...You might check the side braces inside the boat as mine had broken loose..had to re-glass these as well..it's always something

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It's one all the way across from the hot foot to the passenger sponson..here's a pic...not to good though...there are braces in front of the carbon fiber foot rest

post-2-1057858628.jpg

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Well, the bad news is he flipped the boat and most of the bottom chips were from "air pockets" in the glass.  He'll have to glass those areas, then re-gel over it.

On to the big stress cracks.  First, the port side is what shows through.  Aparently this boat had problems before and it was "fixed" at one time.  The starboard side is actually worse, even though the big cracks haven't shown through the paint yet.  They extend 3' down the sides of the deck.

So, 2-3 weeks and $3000 from now, my boat should be right side up and ready to float again.   ???

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Went to see my boat today.  Looks kinda sad sitting there completely void of parts and motor.  :(

Anyway, they have completely fixed the upper deck and transom areas.  Patched all the holes I wanted filled (from old speedo's etc) and re-shot ALL the white paint on the boat.  Also fixed all the small cracks in the deck.

Next they will turn it over and do the bottom.  Also adding pop-up cleats and changing out the carpet while it's apart.

Turns out the cracked areas were fixed once before with BONDO.  Someone actually used bondo to fix this boat!  About a 12" long section on each side was bondo'd up.  They had to cut all that out and reglass it, then paint.

In the end, it will be as good as it gets. :)  Just the way I want it.

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Keith, I'm a little late on the post, But it happened to mine too.  I had it fixed and added plates on both sides of the transom.  It has lasted two years with out a trace of it coming back!  

I think it was from using a transom saver (ya know the brace to the trailer)  I started noticing it after a bass fish'n buddy always was putting the wammy on the trim to saver when we set the boat for trailering.

Now I only trailer in the full down possition and NO brace.  I have trailered some 5K miles since.

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OK Im sorry this isnt stv related but I figure you guys are the bunch to ask. Ive been rebuilding my 13ft Delta for a while now and it is starting to come together. However my Transom is undone. My question is.. in the event that I end up buying a long shaft omc 70, I will either need to build up the existing trans which is really for a 15 mid or throw on the smallest jackplate I can find (4-5 inch probably). Which would you choose and why.

ps if you were to build up the transom how should I go about doin so?

any help is greatly appreciated

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My Euro did the same thing.  i ground away some glass at the transom to Knee area and there was no separation.  It is just the deck gel cracking due to minor transom flex.  I'm almost finished building my own aluminum support brackets.  Re-glass the inner transom where I ground on it, install the support brackets, and problem solved.

O/B Dude

post-2-1066696755.jpg

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My transom brackets are being made now.  The first round of gel/paint and glass work is done.  Next week it goes back to have the two rear cowls paint-matched, get the new sponson side-mounted nav lights installed and the old hole patched/painted and new carpet.

I'll post some pics when I get it back from the next go around.

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Well, the boat is in for the second round with the 'glass guy.  I've removed the front nav light and I'm having the hole filled and that area repainted.  Also having new side of the sponson nav lights put in.  Having the carpet replaced, the rear cowl hinge areas cut out and replaced with hard wood (as it's a little soft and the hinges move around a bit).

Also having my race cowl all fixed (all the little cracks), repainted to match the new white, and a spreader board put in the back so it properly fits the boat.

This round will go for a relatively cheap $1650.

Next (and hopefully final) round will be to replace the rub rail ($750), regel the sides of the boat ($900) - too thin to color sand, fix the rear seat cowling ($400) and do the new interior ($??).

Whew, boating sure is expensive!  :)

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Did you get to change the color atleast with all this money and work invested to kind of give it your own look.If not sounds like it is going to be a new boat.

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Keith what side nav lights did you go with? Did you compare them to others? Where did you buy them? Thanks a ton. My Euro needs some...

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Oh well.  If they stop me on that one or two nights a year, they better also be stopping every other cat in the water.  EVERY Daytona, DCB, Conquest, etc. all have these same types of lights right from the factory.

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