Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
STV_Keith

Pro Comp Transom Problems

Recommended Posts

Well, it's finally done and back in the yard.  Other than doing the interior (which is next), and replacing the rub rail (also next), it's #### near a new boat!

Fixed all the nicks/scratches in the bottom

Sealed up all the old speedo/misc holes in the transom

Regelled those areas

Fixed the structural stress cracks

Reinforced the deck in the gauge area

Repainted all the white on the boat to a brighter white

Match painted the rear race cowl and cut/reglassed it to properly fit the boat

Added popup cleats w/reinforcement backing plates

Removed front nav light from top of deck and added sponson mounted nav lights

Changed pinstriping color from red to black

All new carpet

Cut out section of floor below rear cowl hinges and replaced with hardwood

Fixed transom cracks

The transom bracket is being built now.  I'll post pics when it comes in.  For now, I drilled the hole in the dash for the 5" speedo, and plan to install the steering today.

Still have to figure out where I'm gonna put two pyro gauges in the dash though.

Pics up at:  STV Repaired Pics

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got the transom bracket built up and installed as well.  3/8" side plates inside the knees, 1/4" backing plates outside the knees, and 1/2" plates across the transom.  The weld allows for the inside radius where the knees meet the transom.  All T-6061 aluminum plate.  Six 3/8" bolts per side hold it together.

Unfortunately the machinist make the transom brackets 5" apart instead of 4" apart, so the lower bolts aren't dead center the plate, but they will work fine.

In a few of the pics, you can also see how much higher on the transom the old bolts were.

Transom Bracket Pics

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Keith, looks good.

I've got a 1993 Pro Comp as well. It sold new in 1996, and hasn't seen a lot of water time, and has been inside when not actually in the water. So it's effectively a new boat. With a stock 2.5, 260.

I want to prevent any problems, and you've fixed a few.

What would you recommend as prevention, I intend to keep this boat a while. I'll probably leave the motor fairly close to stock. ( got a race boat as well)

Thanks

Fred

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do you know what layup you have?  My boat was a "double kevlar heavy layup lake boat" and I had these problems.  If you run in any big water, or have a light layup boat, head the problem off at the pass and build a bracket BEFORE you have problems.

The stress cracks in the top deck are common on the PCS design, but until they come through, not much you can do about them.  I have never seen one crack like mine did, but that was because of a bad patch job previously.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Keith

Thanks for the reply, I've been trying to figure out which lay up I've got. I don't think it's a light layup. I can get out on the deck if I do it carefully. No funny crunching noises.

After the holidays, I'll ask the dealer that sold this boat new to look it up.

I agree. PREVENTION. I like your bracket.

Here's a pic of the boat. My wife loves it!!

Fred

post-2-1072951417.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just for clarification, the kevlar or double kevlar or whatever layup mainly applies to the hull only, not the deck.  That's where the real weight savings can be.

However, I have been told of the "race boats" that have paper thin decks that you can't put weight on.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×