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phaustin

new to a procomp 92

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FIRST TIME HERE!I HAVE PURCHASED A 92 PROCOMP,INSTALLED A 94 2.5 CARB WITH A CLE CASE AND A MAZCO 28 RE3.ENG IS BOLTED TO TRANSOM SECOND BOLTHOLE FROM TOP.LAST YEAR WITH VERY LITTLE SEAT TIME AND NO SET UP HELP I MANAGED 95 WITH TWO ABOARD THEN GEARCASE FAILURE  CAUSED ME TO PURCHASE A USED CLE NO BOBS CONE,HYDROFOIL,AND BLOWOUT INSTALLED.SKEG HAD BEEN CLIPPED BACK AND MEASURES 2 3/4 INCHES ALONG VERY BOTTOM.BOAT SEEMED VERY UNSTABLE AND BLEWOUT OR CRABBED AT ABOUT 80-85.WAS TOLD THERE WAS NOT ENOUGH SKEG FOR THE BOAT.GEARCASE CAN BE VIEWED ON SCREAMAND FLY BUYAND SELL LOWER UNITS RH CLE PHAUSTIN.WOULD LIKE HELP? GEARCASE CHOICE.MOTOR HEIGHT,SETBACK??ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT!!THANX

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Phaustin-

Would suggest a sportmaster if you could get one, leave it STOCK, do not cut the skeg, try a 30 merc cleaver, and if your mounting bolt holes are in the standard location, try going up one bolt hole.

Welcome to the board, let us know on your progress.

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I like BOTSONS Suggestions...The SM is the best all round case even in its stock form and it is durable!!!!

post-2-1053607428.jpg

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Boston nailed it.  Yes, most feedback is 3rd hole if mounted to the transom.

How about a picture?

I have a 1992 ProComp as well with a soon to be 2.5 Carb.  

I also run a sportmaster and a 14.5 x 30 Cleaver for top end runs.  The Mazco should be a decent all around prop as is an ET and SRX in my opinion.

ProComp

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thanx for all the help.will go with the sportmaster,but as far as mounting holes drilled in transom i'm unsure.could someone give me a propshaft height? i will take a 4 foot level and hold on bottom of hull.is this a accurate way to measure?seems this would take mounting holes out of the pic.also will post pics as soon as dig camera available.  30 cleaver for top end.what about two people in the boat?this is how i will spend most of my time.how about a est top speed with my prop?i don't want to push it you know.  thanks again for the help!!!!

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Check out the 'motor height' poll on this site...it's at the bottom on the first page...I still run 3/4 above the pad..That's usuing a 4 ft level and is measured to the center of the nose cone with the motor at a right angle to the bottom of the boat..As for the 30" cleaver I have found that it lifts the rear end of the boat so much it almost makes it run in a nose down attitude..with a lot of weight in the back it still has a lot of lift...I like the ETs over the cleavers...these also give you a real rush coming out of the hole...Not as good as a drag prop but plenty of get up and go and the top end is OK for everyday running..especially with someone a bit timid in the boat

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I like BOTSONS Suggestions...The SM is the best all round case even in its stock form and it is durable!!!!

Adn they're shiny too!

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JJ...at 3/4" up.... does that put you at the middle hole in the clamp bracket???

If So...your right on the money!!!!

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If your gear case stays that shiny, you are spending too much time polishing and not enough time boating!  LOL

I gave up on mine and frequent it with a scotch brite pad.  

With my powerhead still in a million pieces, I guess I could be polishing though.  Hmmm.

With a little luck, I hope to be breaking it in next weekend.

ProComp

post-2-1053699648.jpg

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middle hole in clamp bracket with eng bolted to transom,correct?how about propshaft height with cooks 5.5 jackplate and also will this carry the load of an extra person or two better than with eng bolted to transom???

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Mines bolted to the transom..no jack plate..I think there's enough back set built into the boat..I ran a jack on my Ally since there was no set back built in..If you wanna play with different engine heights then the jack would seem to be in order..I have enough to think about just dialing in the correct trim much less having to worry about changing the engine height..there was an engine height thread on this board a while back with all the talk about different weights / props / etc....I think the boat is better balanced when the motor is bolted on and think that Summerford had this in mind when he started building them..I'm sure Anthony will disagree (lol) since he ran a jack on his...BTW there are a number of old threads on the board about props / motors / set-up etc etc...You just have to look back a ways

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Hey Techno...

I have been perusing your web site and the boat colors are pretty 'spiffy'...Also it appears you have been working on everything else related to the boat..ie: seats / interior etc etc...For the record just how long have you been working on this project...from all the pics and explanations it must be a full time job...looking good so far

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Lets see. This is '03 painted last year so I broked it in the fall or late summer '01.

The biggest problem is the case of the "I might as wells"  If I had just fixed the crack I would have been done. But having to turn the boat over to finish the repair, I might as well paint the bottom which of course leads to painting the whole thing!

The floor was plain plywood and was wet and sagging, might as well fix that along with the crack repair. And since I'm painting and rolling it over the engine is coming off, so I might as well take the clamp and all that apart and rebuild it, while I'm at it I might as well polish it too! I had redone the dash  but didn't like it so plug it all for the repaint and start over.

And that is basicly the pattern.

I might as well replace the fittings too since it aint all that difficult. More I do the more I find needs to be done.

I got smart and printed up 2 new lists. These hopefully include everything I need to do. This system worked on the Vette project. You need to do something and heres a list of things, take your pick, finish it and cross it off. It helps to see it proceding, and see the list shrinking.

BTW the lists are mostly to get back on track, if I don't make the wheel I use the old one. Things like that. I havent' updated the web site since I have too many parrallal items and none of them have been finished. So the lists.

I hope to finish this year but it looks like it's going to be a rainy summer. Painting is the big hold up.

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JJ...I am all in favour of straight on with No Jack Plate....especially with 2.5 power and on RR and PC models.

I never Got a chanse to play with No plate...but Like I said the main reason was for tilting purposes...Plus with the Jack I could run very high....We ran 1 3/8" from bottom...so this may have compensated for the extra jack weight.

The best answer I got about the diffrence between running a plate or not on the PCS, was a loss of 3 mph on the top end. When asked why...they said the extra weight slowed the boat down....all I could think there is maybe the extra weight dragged the transom and maybe did not allow the boat to be as effecient....ANYWAY...still figuring on that one ???

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