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Euro setups

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FISH,

There are certainly some issues with efficiency on your setup. I would agree the engine is low but I am not sure you will gain 10mph by going up, but it is possible.

I would start with 1/2" above the pad and work in 1/8" increments from there. I have run 1+ inches with Cleavers but also had more HP then you....

Mike Hurst might be some help as he runs a Euro with a mild 200 and can run 90+. You should be able to get there too and its should be fun to drive.

Also the speed your getting is right in the Bounce zone...have you got past the bounce yet. Cause if you haven't drove thru the bounce yet there is way more speed after you drive thru it.

The bounce is usually gone around 80. Please advise.

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FISH,

There are certainly some issues with efficiency on your setup. I would agree the engine is low but I am not sure you will gain 10mph by going up,  but it is possible.

I would start with 1/2" above the pad and work in 1/8" increments from there. I have run 1+ inches with Cleavers but also had more HP then you....

Mike Hurst might be some help as he runs a Euro with a mild 200 and can run 90+. You should be able to get there too and its should be fun to drive.

Also the speed your getting is right in the Bounce zone...have you got past the bounce yet. Cause if you haven't drove thru the bounce yet there is way more speed after you drive thru it.

The bounce is usually gone around 80. Please advise.

Thanks Anthony, I am going to try it on a bigger lake this afternoon just to make sure I was not running out of room (don't think so but will try) and see if there is anything left to get past the bounce. I definitely was at the bounce, and think I got through it before when I broke 80. Will try going higher too. I appreciate the advice. Really need to do someting about the Mild 200 (more like sedated), but funds are much more limited than my craving to get my euro where it should be. Will elt you know what happens,

thanks,

fish

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Play Safe...the only way to overcome the bounce is more trim, then when it goes away trim in some...or you can fly it into a head wind while acelerating and trimming....there is more speed wehn you go past and you do need room.

The Euro is great ride with a 200...so don't rush and have fun:)

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Well RP will probably correct me again ( mad.gif ) But my set up is a good inch higher than you are running and you need a little more yet with the Cleaver style prop. Go up a good inch and make sure your water pressure is good. You just want to see the water pick ups, no cone.

OK, bash away! biggrin.gif

B-RAD

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Fish,

B-rad is correct in that you just want to see the intake holes. What you experienced is totally normal, the speed and rpm loss. To get it back you'll need to go about 5/8 higher, maybe 3/4". Here it comes Brad.........

The height between props will be the same for the most part. If it is a good prop it will run. If it doesn't then use that one to hold the door open. Remember as you go back with the motor, and as the nose of the boat rises, the gearcase and prop will go lower. So you will need to get the motor up so all you can see is those two intakes. Have someone put their finger on the nozecone point, if you can see their finger your still too low. Try this stuff out and let me know the results. (rpm. mph, how it carries, does it porpise, etc) If you are still not where we think you should be then, (here it come Brad) I'll send you a prop to try. One that I know works and (that Brads name is on rolleyes.gif )to establish a baseline.

Go and test, then lets make it rock!

Randy

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Brad, Randy, Anthony,

thank you so much for the replies and great advice. I had hoped to give you guys some great news after running it yesterday, but my motor got sick when I took it out, so I can't tell you how much the change in set-up helped...yet. I am going to play doctor this weekend and will let you guys know what happened, just wanted to thank you for the advice and did not want you to think it was unappreciated by not responding.

thanks again,

fish

PS Thanks again for the prop offer Randy, hopefully I can get it tweaked with my lesser props, but I really appreciate you (and brad wink.gif )making such a generous offer.

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Randy, Im just curious what pitch Tritons you are running. I had and old 30 hoss I slung a blade off that I thought was a good wheel. I never really had the chance to compare them with the cleaver as far as top speed goes. whats different about the x prop? I'd like to give one a whirl now after hearing how well they run. who do I need to see about getting one?

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Helmet,

For just beating around I run a 14 1/2 X 28 thru 1:87 gears and turn the motor in short bursts to 10000. For the speed run I ran a 1:75 gearset and spun the thing 10400 with the same 28. I have a 30 but we have a little too much rake in it for my liking. Dave and I have come up with something new mostly by accident. The 140mph prop always handled better than every other prop we had. I sent it back to Dave (Hoss) and he asked me what the hell I did to it. I told him nothing and why the question. He said the pitch was correct but the rake had been skewed out of it, or basicly the rake started at 22 degrees and regressed to 16 degrees. All three blades were the identical so he figured I did it. The prop was super thin so we figure the prop torqued or bent itself that way during my use of it. We built a couple more with straight rake and they acted different. We came up with one that was faster by 5mph but handled sporaticly. Meaning it would give me little lifts of the bow when running near top end. Not good at the speeds I was doing. Since then, we are on the third rendition and by taming the rake down like the first prop and some new leading edge tricks (mainly in the "ear" that is so carracteristic of Hoss props) we have the handling of my 140 prop but the top end of gen 2. We also started Cryo treating the props and have not had any failures or tweeking. This is done after heat treat so the props are very durable. The latest thing is a "wing" for lack of a better word in the section of the blade where the exhaust would run by. This is so effective at pulling exhaust out that I LOSE rpm if I take the baffle out. Dave wanted to fill the area behind the gearcase figuring it would result in less drag. Seems to work as this was in the prop above that ran 5mph+ and has since been in all the new ones. I would suggest giving Dave a call at Hoss (918)479-5167. He'd love to work with you on props as he is one of the few guys I found that is INTERESTED in these little projects we have. Lastly I have some real good cleavers but I always seem to go back to my triton props, they just seem to do everything good.

Randy

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