Jump to content
STV_Keith

Where to mount Batt On/Off Switch?

Recommended Posts

So after burning the crap out of my finger when the ONLY non-fused, always on wire in the boat shorted (the power cable to my GPS unit), I've decided I want to add an batt main disconnect.

Bought the Perko unit and just haven't decided where to mount it. I have the battery mounted directly in front of the tank, centered in the boat. I was thinking about the floor space on either side of the battery, but I'm not too thrilled about that idea. Any suggestions?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Keith, ignore the sloppy wiring as this was just after I installed it. This is where it was on my ProComp too.

I used flat head screws and countersunk them in the stringer so it wouldn't rub on the plastic tank.

ProComp

post-2-1087272124.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Guest_phooker

Auto parts stores generally carry the little post mounted units in brass with a thumbwheel activated "switch". They are cheap, work great and are simple to install. Available for post or GM/marine style terminals.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Keith. I realize that our Euros and your ProComp are different but I thought this might be worth mentioning. Also, mine definitely isn't the perfect set-up but it might give someone an idea.

In the picture you can see the dark gray battery switch sticking up between the trim lines. I had to use this location because there was already a battery switch here when I bought the boat. The downside to this location is that you have to drill a large hole in the transom to stick the switch neck through and the two small holes to secure the switch. The switch actually uses 4 screws/bolts but I just couldn't drill that many holes in the boat... This switch uses a plastic key that is removable. I view it as a mild help when it comes to security. I never leave the key in when the boat is not being used. A thief would have to rewire the boat to get power to the starter. It is also really easy to get to the switch since you don't have to lift the hatch. Its made by Blue Sea Systems.

Just an idea for ya.... If I had the opportunity to do it from scratch, I probably would not pick to drill in the transom but I may still have used this switch somewhere else.

post-2-1087414435.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Guest

I mounted mine in the pocket under the rear seat. That could be a problem for you though.

Either in the cockpit next to the rear seat area or under the head crusher cover in the back. Way back there you can't switch it, but with only 1 battery isn't a concern. With 2 batteries you need it where you can get to it, on the water.

If mounting forward remember the wire runs are very long now ( you double since to and from + the distance) may need heavier wire.

For skin mounting I used the riv-nut fasteners although bolting them would work too.

Hmm. Maybe the hand hole cover?

BTW I found that some "battery" switches aren't. Check the load rating on them and they don't handle the needed cranking amps. I found several rated at 200 amps!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Techno, Is that you? smile.gif

How many amps do you need for starting an outboard?

I looked through an Overtons really quickly and found:

Perko switches - 250A continuous, 360 intermitant

Blue Sea high performance - 350 continuous, 600 intermitant, 700 cranking, 1600 in-rush (?)

Blue Sea Mini battery switch - 250 continuous, 375 intermitant

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ya that was me.

Damn and I have a perko too.

Don't know how many but since the battery is rated above that...

Seems to me cranking and intermittant are the same. Starter motors are a intermittant duty motor. So many seconds on so many minutes off.

inrush won't matter much. Thats the motor starting amps and is usually ignored, for most stuff.

I guess that the ~200 amp starting load is OK since they haven't failed yet even on inboards?

Mine didn't burn out switched to both batteries and cranking near stall. The batteries were about dead and so was the motor biggrin.gif I figure the amps were much higher and didn't blow the switch.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Keith.

I mounted mine under the rear fairing next to the access cover plate so I could just reach through the back end without having to lift it up.

Randy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×