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New Member / New Euro

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Yes hydraulic will cover up a lot of the steering torque. With the SS-Pro you still can "feel" the boat very well. That's my 2 cents.

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B-Rad brings up a point that I have to deal with almost everyday at the business. While I think the hydralic steering is nice to drive and neat in it's installation, it does cover up the torque issue. Especially to new owners, this may cover up the basic set up problems. I tell my customers with this steering to watch the motor angle as you go down the lake. (hard to do when going 100+) If the motor is crabbed and not basicly straight some big improvements can be had. Not only in speed and performance but the fact that the steering components will love you for it. I guess thats the delema when you own an STV, it runs pretty fast even if the set up is not right! I'm the kind of guy who never wants to leave something on the table, I call it "free" mph. It is there for the taking so why not get it! I talked to B-rad on the subject of seat time and prop/set up testing. I basically said, I probably test more than most people go boating. Maybe that's why I sound (write) so critical on some things. I assume that other people have that luxury and I'm wrong for thinking that. Hope nobody gets offended by my banter. More better things to come...I'll try to get Brad to help me post some photos.

Randy

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Excellent comments again Randy...THANKS biggrin.gif

I still have it..............got the Skater too

The main reason for buying the steering bracket is that it was reccommended as a safety issue. I don't have any unusual torc on my wheel, but there was someone in Tennesee that went thru the side of their boat last summer.....and for $100 I'm pretty sure I won't be that guy. lol...lol

Anyway.....

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It was Kirt Graff that had the accident,the boat suddenly hooked when he was doing around 70 mph if I remember.He said when he looked the boat over as to what caused it ,he narrowed it down to the 3/8 bolt that attatches the tillerarm to the steering.Kurt was lucky ,he got away with some bruising,I think he had a lifeline jacket on.Im not sure if the bracket would have helped or not when the bolt snaps its done,the bracket may have helped take some torque off the tiller arm but that would be it.I too have this bracket on my modvp motor I think it came from land and sea. I was thinking of buying his euro at the time he was selling it,as it worked out I found one closer in Minnesota whoooo. sad.gif

post-513-1106179000.jpg

post-513-1106179028.jpg

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I also bought some sort of super high strength bolt that costs about $35 that is to be used with the kit. This is a pretty clear example of what I would like to avoid. Nothing wrong with my set-up, I just don't think that there is any reason to not be safe. Not for a $100.

Sorry if you think thats overkill.

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Lee, you have any info on that bolt? Mines past due to change and this winter would be a good time to do so.

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Goes back to my horn tooting. If the boat is set up right and the torque is corrected the bolt wouldn't have broke. Also the boat would not have hooked, it would be a hell of a ride but not a hook. How am I so sure?? I have had steering failure on more than one instance in my many years at this game. While the boats veered around, it doesn't go full lock. (thats what makes this one so obvious) It was unfortunate for the owner of this boat but the problem is NOT the bolt or the tiller arm ( next "new" problem to surface on the net) it is the total set up of the rig.

Proper set up will not only get you going faster it's a hell of alot safer. (by set up I mean prop, gearcase, height, etc.)

Randy

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It was unfortunate for the owner of this boat but the problem is NOT the bolt or the tiller arm ( next "new" problem to surface on the net) it is the total set up of the rig.

lol....

Tell that to the guy that ons the boat pictured above. If it wasn't the bolt...and it isn't the tiller arm...I guess the setup is what slung him thru the hull. My guess is that he has the "New Bolt" and the Safety Yoke. (Notice the name..."SAFETY YOKE". I guess it's just a dumb thing...huh???)

My boat is set up properly, but why take a chance. I guess I should take the steering plate off of the Skater and just go with the tiller arm...sounds like it's just as good.

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Lee, you have any info on that bolt? Mines past due to change and this winter would be a good time to do so.

You can order them from Glen Reynold Racing. They have a number of products designed to keep all of us safer...and that's hard to argue with.

This isn't the first time this has happened. When you talk to Glen, he'll tell you about another guy in TN that this happened to. I really don't think he's out there getiing rich off Safety Yokes.

And he's no weekender GPI, he is a World Record Holder and APBA National Champion 1999 , 2000.

Reynolds Racing and Marine

1019 South Roane Street

Harriman, Tennessee 37748

865-882-9623 - Fax 865-882-6010

http://www.reynoldsracingmarine.com/

Hope that helps.

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Changing the attatchment bolt every season is good a rule of thumb.With the cycles of loading and unloading on that bolt its going to get weak.Im not sure if a hardend steel bolt or a soft metal is better but I know Kurt was trying to eliminte his torque problems with different props,I think he was using the drag copies.But from what Randy was saying having the engine height,setback,prop,gearcase all working together will be preventing undue stress on the weak parts of the setup.Last time I heard Kurt was running a River Rocket,he posts on S/F if you want to get more info on this.

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Ya, that "safety yoke", there's a real fix. Land and Sea had a similar device in the '80's. Does wonders to the 2 front powerhead studs. Osprey you are my hero. What you don't get is that even if you beef up every part on the motor, then the next weak link fails, like the pinion in your steering helm or the steering arm right at the 90 degree bend. Boat still goes right turn Clyde. FIX the problem..

Randy

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Ya, that "safety yoke", there's a real fix. Land and Sea had a similar device in the '80's. Does wonders to the 2 front powerhead studs. Osprey you are my hero. What you don't get is that even if you beef up every part on the motor, then the next weak link fails, like the pinion in your steering helm or the steering arm right at the 90 degree bend. Boat still goes right turn Clyde. FIX the problem..

Randy

That's a Seastar Hydraulic Steering system on my rig slim...and I don't have any problems. Take a second look at the pic you're looking at, that's not my boat. Thanks for all your valuable help. Your wisdom has overcome me.

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Osprey,

Nice to see you turn this into a pissing contest. You are above me. If you actually read what I wrote I never refer to YOUR boat. I could care less what craft you pilot.

The big safety issue here is like saying, your car is going down the road with the left front wheel toe out at 20 degrees. At 70mph we keep breaking tie rod ends. Rather than fix the alignment, we will install heavier duty tie rod ends.

That logic is not to sharp. I will not argue on this point anymore. If someone wants to run their rig sub-par (as excessive torque is a sure sign) more power to them. Not only will they be dangerous but they'll be slow. End of story.

Randy

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When you reply to a thread that began about my boat, I would imagine that you are talking about "my boat". I have never had anyone give me crap about buying a secondary safety product. I guess you shouldn't bother with the beefed up bolt either.

I don't think I'm the person that started this pissing contest.

Just because you buy the "Safety Yoke" doesn't mean you have a setup problem.

Have a nice day!

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RP the holey boat belonged to Kurt Graf. Osprey has a nicely upgraded Summerford Euro bought from BRB.

Somehow this thread got off track.

Osprey to my knowledge the safety yoke is installed as a safety feature to the tiller arm breaking and was probably designed for the older V6 mercs that had the little wimping one. I know on occasion that the big ones can break too. I don't foresee there being any non-benifits of putting one in as you have done. It does not assist with any safety issues with regards to the bolt. You would have to put a dual opposed steering system in that utilizes 2 bolts or maybe a Laythem side mount hydraullic system like Helmut runs to address that problem.

I think Randy was just saying with a properly set up and maintened rig, the parts Merc supplies from factory are engineered to do the job safely. The safety yoke can be seen as kind of a bandaid. Actually I would be interested to know if it would really hold a motor if the tiller arm snapped.

I wonder how many people loose that steering bolt when doing some work on there boat and just go to the hardware store and buy one.

B-RAD

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I usually put the smallest aluminium bolt I can find then wrap it duct tape to the correct diameter to reduce sloppy steering. This helps to save weigh, it all adds up! wink.gif !!

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I would think that if the yoke broke that v brace would fold up fast. It may have lateral stability, but none vertically.

I have seen MANY boats crash, and not one had a broken yoke or steering bolt, skegs and mids and other things yes, but never the steering on the motor.

RT

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RT,

AMEN!! Very well said and you hit the most common problems.

Guys, FYI when writing on these boards, things can get taken out of context. I never implied that Osprey or anyone was silly for considering one of the plates or a better bolt. It may have come off that way to some, but that was not what I meant. I deal with so many people with boats that have excessive torque it's rediculous. Had one today believe it or not. I tend to focus on the root of the cause and probably come off too critical. Anyway, writing is not the best way to comunicate, I'd be a novelist if that was the case. Sorry that the whole purpose of this post changed to something else than intended.

Randy

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RT,

AMEN!! Very well said and you hit the most common problems.

Guys, FYI when writing on these boards, things can get taken out of context. I never implied that Osprey or anyone was silly for considering one of the plates or a better bolt. It may have come off that way to some, but that was not what I meant. I deal with so many people with boats that have excessive torque it's rediculous. Had one today believe it or not. I tend to focus on the root of the cause and probably come off too critical. Anyway, writing is not the best way to comunicate, I'd be a novelist if that was the case. Sorry that the whole purpose of this post changed to something else than intended.

Randy

This thread did get a little off track, but it did bring up something good. How about some discussion on the set-up. I find it really intersesting that a couple of you are saying that you can drive a properly set up STV with 2 fingers. I have 95 Euro that had 2.4 Carb motor on it, 2 hole CLE, 5" CMC manual jack and a 28" Mazco 3 blade chopper. Shaft was set even with bottom pad (after reading this forum, I'm finding out that it is apparently too low), but I really had some extreme torque at the wheel, almost uncomfortable to drive. I've got a new 2.5 on order and would like to here some suggestions on how to get it to drive nicer.

Mark

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