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Mark,

I have had some of the same questions and the guys here at STVOwners.com have been really great about helping me setup my Euro. Here is the thread, there is a lot of good stuff there already but could always use more.

good luck,

fish

STV Euro Setup Thread

This thread did get a little off track, but it did bring up something good. How about some discussion on the set-up. I find it really intersesting that a couple of you are saying that you can drive a properly set up STV with 2 fingers. I have 95 Euro that had 2.4 Carb motor on it, 2 hole CLE, 5" CMC manual jack and a 28" Mazco 3 blade chopper. Shaft was set even with bottom pad (after reading this forum, I'm finding out that it is apparently too low), but I really had some extreme torque at the wheel, almost uncomfortable to drive. I've got a new 2.5 on order and would like to here some suggestions on how to get it to drive nicer.

Mark

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That was my euro with the holes in the pics Randy. I was doing around a 100 when the bolt broke. Firestarter it you havnt seen a steering bolt break heres your first pic of one. There was a service bulletin on that bolt. I'll post a pic of it. Randy how can you say the boat didnt and shouldnt hook, trust me it did . If the motor has no steering cables etc. just hanging free on the back of the boat. Your saying if you give it gas the motor will stay perfectly straight, that doesnt happen. The torque of the motor makes it go to one side. Try holding on to motor with no steering linkage attached at all than stick it in gear and try to hold it straight. My friends tried that to get it back to the ramp after the crash. It doesnt work. Hell try it with a 20 horse motor I bet you couldnt do it. You guys may have a lot of experiance behind the wheel and think things like this cant happen to you. If you think this way you guys are wrong. It can happen. If this happened at 140 it wouldnt be pretty. STV' s as any boat even with the perfect set up are not bullet proof. I now own a RR. It came with the same steering as I had on the euro. It relies on one bolt. That is for sure being taken off and changed. If you guys have the one bolt attachment at least up date the bolt. I see nothing wrong with any safety features added to any steering set up. Kurt

post-635-1106328871.jpg

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Heres one more with the old bolt . If anybody has this bolt on your boat. Throw it away. New Part # 10-849838. Its an ARP bolt

post-635-1106331547.jpg

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Kirt, I am well aware of the bolt update, I have over a dozen new SPS bolts in my parts drawer.

Still I have never seen a bolt break.... other than yours. I would think that yours was loose or over torqued, or just downright old.

If you want to see what a Euro looks like that has been really crashed ask Anthony to scan the pictures I gave him....... they are from a broken midsection.

RT

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YES RT...I need to scan those pics...I'll try to remeber for next week

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THanks, Fish,

I had read that thread, but it really never got into the torque steer issue. Randy was talking like there was a proper set up that would eliminate the torque steer and the crabbing and I was just wondering about it. I know that different props can cause torque and that different engine heights and trim can also, but I'd like to know if there is a good starting point to begin with.

Mark

Mark,

I have had some of the same questions and the guys here at STVOwners.com have been really great about helping me setup my Euro.  Here is the thread, there is a lot of good stuff there already but could always use more.

good luck,

fish

STV Euro Setup Thread

This thread did get a little off track, but it did bring up something good. How about some discussion on the set-up. I find it really intersesting that a couple of you are saying that you can drive a properly set up STV with 2 fingers. I have 95 Euro that had 2.4 Carb motor on it, 2 hole CLE, 5" CMC manual jack and a 28" Mazco 3 blade chopper. Shaft was set even with bottom pad (after reading this forum, I'm finding out that it is apparently too low), but I really had some extreme torque at the wheel, almost uncomfortable to drive. I've got a new 2.5 on order and would like to here some suggestions on how to get it to drive nicer.

Mark

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Kurt G,

I never meant to pick on you or your boat. My boat WILL go down the lake without excessive torque. I've made fly-bys on Cross Lake in front of god and everybody and had the steering arm break (at the 90 degree bend) at over 100. Like I said it was a hell of a ride but no nasty hook. And you have to admit, yours was a nasty hook. In the situation I had, when you lift off the throttle the front of the motor will turn right and hence the boat will veer left. I surmise you were heavy into the throttle when the bolt failed as you made your way to the port side. Trust me, and I'm not trying to belittle or doubt you, if things are correct the gearcase/prop are going through the water straight and counter acting one another. There is no way I could have gone as fast as I have with ALL the boats I've done high speeds with if my gearcase is crabbing through the water. I'm with you on the single bolt deal, 2 bolts are better. Why we are using the same 3/8" bolt in the first place is bizarre. A nice 1/2" aircraft quality bolt would be better. They used 3/8" steering bolts in the '60s. My steering arm failed from harmonics and fatigue. Your bolt might have too.

B-rad is coming down next week and just because of this thread I'm going to drill, tap and set up a centersection with a 1/2 bolt. If it is feasable and looks to be better I'll post some pics through Brad.

Lastly, Kurt.. if we ever get to go boating on the same lake, take my boat out for a spin. Then you can say thumbs up or down. All I can tell you is a 5 year old could steer my boat. I spend more time on that than most from what I see here. But I totally understand that you NEVER want to be in that situation again. (side note:: B-rad has seen me jump out of the seat at 80+ to lay on the back deck and see the gearcase height and how it is running in the water. I am the only one in the boat. The boat goes straight or I couldn't be typing this.)

Lets see how the 1/2" project goes.

Randy

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Randy, thanks, I'd like to check your boat out. What kind of steering system are you using? I'm thinking of going with the Nydahl steering or the dual opposed steering on the new boat. Any suggestions? Its a brand new RR (Dave BB's boat)and its never been in the water yet, its sittin in the garage waiting for spring. I have a brand new 280 offshore 15" mid coming mid March to put on it. I'll plan on bringing it up to you to see if we can get it set up right. I'm lookin at gettin a couple props from you too so put me on the list. I'll get a hold of you in the spring after the ice melts. Right now its time to go sledding. Take it easy, Kurt

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I would be curious to know if a new dual opposed steering system is still available.

Anyone know and is it a rotary or a rack?

B-RAD

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Hot Shot, I don't think so but I was curious. I believe I was told the rack systems don't fit in an STV as there is not enough room under the dash. A new dual opposed rotary would be nice.

What are you rigging your new boat with?

B-RAD

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Lee, you have any info on that bolt? Mines past due to change and this winter would be a good time to do so.

You can order them from Glen Reynold Racing. They have a number of products designed to keep all of us safer...and that's hard to argue with.

This isn't the first time this has happened. When you talk to Glen, he'll tell you about another guy in TN that this happened to. I really don't think he's out there getiing rich off Safety Yokes.

And he's no weekender GPI, he is a World Record Holder and APBA National Champion 1999 , 2000.

Reynolds Racing and Marine

1019 South Roane Street

Harriman, Tennessee 37748

865-882-9623 - Fax 865-882-6010

http://www.reynoldsracingmarine.com/

Hope that helps.

too right he isn't off getting rich off, well, anything. True, he is very good at what he does, but that dosen't make him any different than any of you. He's just a family guy who loves what he does. Reynolds Racing is a family business, co-owned with his wife, Carol. The employees there are like family to them, and I strongly commend you for becoming part of the Reynolds Racing family. responses welcome. or send them through my email would most likely be better.

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Yep...another extended WELCOME to Racing Blood :D

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